Galapagos - October 4-18, 2017

In October we treated ourselves to a fabulous 2-week visit to the Galapagos Islands, on a boat called "Beluga". WiFi on the boat was non-existent, so we had to postpone our blogging until we returned. We took hundreds of photos and some videos which are posted on Flickr. Here are links to a selection.

Galapagos Places and People
Galapagos Birds
Galapagos Mammals
Galapagos Reptiles

The picturesque sailboat we were expecting to sail on, the Cachalote, had a “maintenance issue” so we were assigned to a much more luxurious, if less elegant one, with 8 double cabins. We later learned the sorry fate of the Cachalote when we spotted two masts and half a hull poking up from the waves in the harbor. Apparently some workers had tipped the boat over to paint the hull and had omitted to close the portholes - the boat sank in a few minutes. 

Consequently, our boat trip was delayed for two nights which we spent in a hotel in Puerto Ayora, the largest town in the Galapagos, from where we took day trips with our dynamic and enthusiastic guide. 

He was appropriately named Darwin—as were the finches, a small island, a large caldera on the island of Genovesa, the Research Station, an active volcano and a shrub on the largest island, Isabela. He spoke excellent English (his wife is from London), he could swim like a fish, and was extremely knowledgeable about the birds, fish, geology, animals, plants and history of the amazing islands.

The guide for our second week on the Beluga was also extremely knowledgeable, full of fun, a master of story-telling with a wicked sense of humor. Juan shared his photos with all of us each evening, along with the names of fish, plants, animals, and birds in English, Spanish, and German.

We feel incredibly lucky to have seen so many of the species of ridiculously tame birds, fish and reptiles that are mostly unique to the Galapagos Islands.

Each day followed a similar pattern of walks and snorkeling activities, but the experiences, wildlife and landscapes were very different at each place we visited. The boat sailed mostly at night to a sheltered spot designated by the Park Service as a landing site. The schedule has to be fixed and approved a year in advance so that the number of boats and tourists at any one stop at any one time is restricted and tightly controlled.
After an early breakfast of fruit, juice, cereal, toast, eggs, yoghurt, cheese, coffee/tea, we set off in the pangas (rubber zodiac-style motor boats) to a landing spot for a walk of 1-2 hours, with frequent stops to learn about the wildlife and the environment.  
Back on the boat, after a quick snack, we put on wet suits and grabbed masks, fins and snorkels for an hour or so of snorkeling with fish (including sharks and rays), turtles, sea lions and even penguins, in the cool waters of the Pacific.        The water temperature at this time of year is no higher than 68F (20C) — we definitely needed those wet suits if we wanted to stay in the water for more than 5 minutes. 

Warmed up with hot soup as part of a hearty and healthy lunch, while the boat moved on to another bay, we were ready for another walk and more snorkeling, or sometimes kayaking. We were welcomed aboard with cups of hot chocolate and warm gougeres (baked cheesy pastries) with honey, as the sun set. 
After a delicious dinner, we learned about the next day’s program, and retired to bed exhausted at about 9 PM. The Beluga's chef was excellent, catering for 16 passengers and seven crew members, including some vegetarians. He prepared  a wide range of dishes with plenty of fresh vegetables and fruit, salads, and of course lots of tasty, fresh fish. 

Highlights...

• Giant tortoises on several islands. Many are at least 100-150 years old. The big ones weigh up to 400 pounds and eat 50 pounds of green vegetation a day. Experts can tell which island tortoises come from by the shape of the shell. On the main island there are even road signs for “tortoises crossing”.
• Kayaking along a tall cliff-face in the evening sun, with blue-footed boobies, brown Noddy terns and flightless cormorants, only feet way from us, watchful but unafraid.
• Chasing after a mother and baby humpback whale in a panga, with the huge animals rising to the surface every few minutes to blow off steam.
• Catching up with a vast pod of dolphins — probably more than 150 — accompanied by pilot whales and even a couple of sharks, then dropping into the water with mask and snorkel to see them streaking by, whistling and squeaking to each other.
• Beaches thronged with adorable sea lions coming up close to sniff our feet. There are many babies at this time of year, newborns suckling and young ones playful and curious, swimming athletically around each other and us, and doing yoga stretches on the rock. Some even frequenting the fish market in Puerto Ayora, or making themselves comfortable on the benches on the boardwalk, or on the platform at the back of the Beluga.
• So many beautiful birds - albatrosses, pelicans, herons, boobies, frigate birds, tropic birds, lava gulls, Darwin finches, Galápagos penguins, flamingos, noddy terns, storm petrels and many others found nowhere else on earth.
• Snorkeling with colorful Pacific fish, dozens of sea turtles, sharks, rays, weird, chocolate-chip starfish and sea urchins.
• Relaxing on a sunbed on the top deck at night look up at myriads of stars.  There is no light pollution the air is crystal clear, and the Milky Way clearly visible. There are too many stars to pick out constellations, which all look different anyway when you are at the Equator.
• Sitting on a pristine, yellow-sand beach listening to our guide, Juan Tapia's tall tales of early 20th century settlers in the Galapagos -- the toothless German dentist who was a disciple of Nietzsche, the countess with her three lovers, the mass murderer who was was never caught... The tales are apparently based on truth with colorful local embellishments.
• Shining flashlights on the water at night from the deck of the Beluga and watching large pale sharks -- 2 meters and more -- gliding past. 
• Lying flat on a bed of 100-year old pahoehoe (ropy) lava pretending to enjoy a massage.
• Watching the GPS on the bridge of the Beluga gradually clicking down to latitude 0.00.000 as we crossed the Equator, then enjoying a celebratory cocktail and photo with the Beluga's captain.
• Making new friends among passengers from many places -- USA, Sweden, Peru, Puerto Rico, Germany, Austria, Spain, Australia, and England.

It was truly the trip of a lifetime.