Our Accommodation
The main building of the Chandelao Garh |
We are staying in
the old fort of the village, the Chandelao Garh. The main building is
a handsome stone structure built in the early 18th century
by the Thakur of Chandelao, who in the feudal system of the kingdom
of Rajasthan was a member of the family of the Maharajah. The central
building is beautifully decorated red sandstone in the Mughal style.
In the center is a little courtyard surrounded by a colonnade where
we have our meals. The main building is surrounded by a large
fortified wall, which has the less important structures built against
it. We are in a modest-sized long, narrow, white-washed stone room
which was once the crockery cupboard – they must have had a lot of
crockery. We have two single beds – quite short – fitted with
tall t-bars at each end to hold mosquito nets in the wet season. The
beds are wooden planks with brick-hard 2-inch horsehair mattresses,
and red embroidered covers. We thought they would be uncomfortable,
but have quickly got used to them. We have a large private bathroom
with shower. The hot water is entirely solar-heated, and it is very
hot. We have 4 small windows fitted with wooden shutters and
fly-screen, and no glass. Electricity is available but intermittent.
It always seems to go out just when you need it and is available when
you don't.
Our bedroom, with "firm" beds |
Food
The fort has now
been converted into a hotel which is ranked #2 out of 77 in Jodhpur
on the TripAdvisor web site. We eat in the hotel restaurant, and the
food is wonderful. Breakfast is not very Indian, with home-made
yogurt, cereal, fruit, juice, eggs, toast, chapatis and tea or
coffee. Lunch and dinner are very Indian with rice, chapatis, 2 or 3
vegetable dishes and one meat or chicken dish. It is all self-serve,
but the colorfully turbaned wait-staff are there to tell us what the
dishes are and to bring us drinks and sweet desserts. We are fast
becoming adept at eating with our fingers, and love the interesting
flavors and unfamiliar vegetables. Because it is hotel with mostly
western guests, the spiciness is often toned down, but there is
usually a strong chutney or pickle available on the side. There is an
abundance of dairy products available – butter, milk, yogurt and
soft cheese – which suits Lin very well. It is easy to be a vegetarian here, but impossible to be a vegan -- everything is cooked in butter.
Praduman Singh |
Our Host
Praduman
Singh, a direct descendant of the Thakurs of Chandelao, came back to
live here in 1996. His family had left the village after their land
was mostly confiscated during the land reforms of the 1970s. He is
also in charge of the Chandelao Vikas Sansthan (Development
Organization) and hence the supervisor of our activities here. He is
an interesting and dynamic individual who is devoted to improving the
village and the lives of the locals. He is quite adept at raising
money from international foundations, and with their help has
restored the old fort and converted
it into a hotel, developed a craft center for employment of village
women (they traditionally have no sources of income), and has built
water collection and storage structures. He seems quite happy for us
to do what we like as long as it is overall reasonably helpful. He
speaks excellent English as well as Marwari and Hindi, and is very
good at charming the hotel guests. He looks equally at home in jeans
and t-shirt or white dhoti, tunic and orange, red and yellow turban.
The Village
Collecting water at the lake |
The
village has about 1,800
inhabitants who belong to different castes. The predominant language
is Marwari, which is related to Hindi but the two languages are more
or less mutually unintelligible. The village has three schools, a
store, a tailor's, a mobile phone store and four Hindu temples. A
qualified nurse runs the store and a clinic at the back of the same
building, from which he dispenses medicine and medical advice. Most
people don't have running water in their home...we are lucky! We also
have a filter on the kitchen tap where we can fill our bottles with
drinking water...they carry large metal pots on their heads (no
hands) and fill them at the two wells near the lake, one for the
higher- and one for the lower-caste villagers. There is an infrequent
bus service to Jodhpur, and drivers compete with cows, tractors,
goats and pukpuks (highly decorated covered tricycles with a noisy
lawnmower engine you start with a string). If something is blocking
your way you sound your horn and drive on the wrong side of the road.
Larger vehicles are given priority, but indicators can mean either
you are pulling out or telling another driver to pass you, so the
resulting confusion is never your fault.
The
craft center is a tourist attraction where women work for an hourly
rate with commission on individual items. They sew beaded, buttoned
and sequined bags, shirts, cushion covers, scarves, shawls, necklaces
and mats. Some sew garments on machines...non-electric and
treadle-operated, of course...and others chain-stitch designs of
peacocks and elephants with gold metal thread and colored yarns.
Their work is displayed for sale in thatch-roofed, stone circular
buildings. When a woman marries, she invariably leaves this village
to go and live with her husband's family in a nearby village, so the
skilled younger workers often need to be replaced. Some of the
mothers bring their babies or pre-school kids to work with them, so
there is a friendly family atmosphere in the center, though the
manager, currently a young intern from Texas, can get frustrated at
the slow pace of work. They have taught Lin how to do the
chain-stitching (called ari
tari), and are
charmingly complimentary about her clumsy efforts.
Making chapatis in the hotel kitchen |
So
far this week she has been invited to a cup of chai at the tailor's
house and the home of one of the ari
tari workers,
where she is asked to take their photos, and records their names,
which they write in Hindi and she transcribes in English. Now she has
started teaching at the local private school she is becoming
well-known in the village, the “freak of the week”, and is
followed by children trying out English words and asking her to take
their photo. At first they giggled and kept asking her name, until
the constant repetition triggered the realization that Linda sounds
like a Marwari word we later learned means “poop”.
Weather and
Environment
This region of Rajasthan is dry, semi-desert. The temperatures at
present are between 75 F during the day and 50 F at night, though it
feels much colder because of the low humidity. We usually don't take
off our thick sweaters until lunch time. In the summer – May, June,
July – temperatures regularly go up to 120 F. August and September
are the only months with rain, when they get about 10 inches during
the monsoon. The rest of the year it is dry. The locals are adept at
dealing with these harsh conditions. The cows manage to live on tough
desert grasses, and there are plenty of goats. There are tanks for
collecting water, and a couple of large artificial lakes have been
dug. Unfortunately, they are quite low at present as the past two
monsoons were below average. If local water runs too low they can get
more from a branch of the Indira Gandhi canal which brings water to
this region from the Himalayan foothills. Because of the dry climate,
the local vegetation is rather sparse, but dominated by invasive
mesquite, which is a real spiky hazard when walking around the
village. Mesquite spikes easily go through the sole of the average
shoe – we have taken to wearing our thickest and strongest shoes.
There are of course many cows, and the evidence of cows on the
village streets – another hazard of walking in unsuitable shoes.
The cowpats are dried and used as fuel for open fires, or smoothed
onto floors and walls as a surprisingly odorless coating. There are
many beautiful and colorful birds, parrots, bee-eaters, rollers,
kingfishers, bulbuls and mynah birds – and wild peacocks are
everywhere.
Enough about this lovely and interesting place....we'll write about
what we are actually doing here
in our next installment.
Please email if you have any questions or comments
Lin and Sandy
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